By Lana Katsaros, to Museum Spotlight Europe (November 2023)
Born from Le Voyage à Nantes Festival, The Green Line in Nantes, France offers a year-round self-guided walking tour through permanent and elegant art installations. No map is needed, as you must follow a well worn, 7.5 mile green line to discover the unique installations along the journey. The art sites sprawl across parks, roads, and bridges, passing museums, fountains, and city landmarks.
Divided into six sections, each of which is dedicated to a different theme, The Green Line covers interests such as history, nature, and art in all mediums. Along the way, visitors can see over 40 pieces of unique art, including sculptures, murals, and installations. Since there are no rules, visitors can start and stop the line however, whenever and wherever they choose. The line is now a popular destination to experience emerging artists, installations and culture in a new way all year, and not just during festival season.
Nantes, France is filled with rich history and culture. It has been a major port city for centuries, and its location on the Loire River has made it a crossroads of trade and culture. In recent years, Nantes has become a hub for art and museum enthusiasts, evident by the treasures discovered along The Green Line. For those with children, it will capture their attention; for those who like art, you will be impressed; and for those more interested in history and science, there is even a good helping for you.
Musée d’Arts de Nantes
An important art destination on the provided path is the Musée d’Arts de Nantes which was founded in 1801, making it one of the oldest museums in France. The Musée d’Arts de Nantes remains the city’s main art museum and boasts an art collection that spans nine centuries. The museum houses both contemporary and historical pieces which are organized into four main sections, creating easier navigation.
The museum’s collection includes works by some of the most famous artists in the world, such as Perugino, Delacroix, and Gauguin. In addition to the Musée d’Arts de Nantes, consider visiting the Musée Jules Verne, the Musée d’Ethnographie de Nantes and the Musée des Beaux-Arts de la Loire-Atlantique.
Les Machines de l’Île
For those intrigued by the whimsical elements the Green Line has to offer, Les Machines de l’Île is a must-see. Les Machines de l’Île is a cultural project consisting of intricately made machine animals. Besides watching the machines being brought to life when puppeteered by the staff, guests can ride the enormous elephant through town and children can enjoy the curious carousel.
The project was created by François Delarozière and Pierre Orefice, and inspired by the work of Jules Verne and Leonardo da Vinci. Les Machines de l’Île is a work in progress, so visitors may anticipate the ongoing changes and additions to this destination.
For me personally, this stop alone piqued my interest when researching a visit to Nantes. I can confidently say my experience did not disappoint. It’s a curious dreamscape of botanicals flanked by beautiful machine animals tucked away from the bustling city.
Jardin des Plantes
Home of one of France’s first botanical gardens is Jardin des Plantes. The public park is home to some of the works of hometown art hero, Jean Jullien. Huge, giggle-inducing pieces are prominently displayed between the serenity of nature. Some find this park the perfect location to start or end their green line journey.
The Jardin des Plantes is one of the most popular sections of the Green Line because it offers a variety of activities and attractions for visitors of all ages, public toilets, playspace, and spectacular walking paths. The park is home to a wide variety of flowers and trees, including over 1,200 different species of plants. There are also a number of sculptures besides Julliens’s work. The installations are scattered throughout the park, making for a surreal feeling.
In addition to its natural beauty, the Jardin des Plantes is also home to a number of educational exhibits and the perfect spot in Nantes to picnic.
Street Art
There is plenty of street art and sculptures sprinkled along the Green Line to keep you intrigued as you go from one spot to the next. The playful micro-art that can be found on doorbells, signs and walls, like the realistic beaver sculpture, add to the abundant, larger street art and tasteful graffiti.
In fact, in recent years, the city has become a hub for street art, with new murals and sculptures appearing all the time. If you pay attention, you’ll find delight in the nooks and crannies as well as the large scale canvases.
Some of the most famous street artists in Nantes include Jef Aérosol, Jean Jullien, and Miss Tic. Jef Aérosol is a French graffiti artist who is known for his stenciled portraits of people and animals. Jean Jullien is a French illustrator and street artist who is known for his playful and humorous work. Miss Tic is a French stencil artist who is known for her stenciled messages about love, life, and the city.
Passage Pommeraye
Passage Pommeraye isn’t just a shopping arcade, it’s a work of art. Passage Pommeraye is a stunning example of 19th-century architecture which was built between 1880-83 by architect Jean-Baptiste Buron, and it is considered to be one of the most beautiful passages in Europe, which is no surprise. The glass and iron ceiling alone are an architectural delight.
The arcade is a three-story structure and is decorated with ornate sculptures and fountains. It is home to a variety of shops, cafes, and restaurants, but it is also easy to walk through during your green line journey. You may even recognize this passage from the classic movie, Lola.
Natural History Museum of Nantes
As I approached The Natural History Museum of Nantes for the first time, it felt like I stumbled upon a secret garden. Visitors won’t forget the magical walk to the front of the building.
The museum is a natural history museum located in the middle of Nantes, unsuspectingly tucked away in a park. Founded in 1793, the museum boasts a collection that includes over 2 million specimens, representing all major groups of plants and animals.
The museum is divided into four main sections: Zoology, Botany, Mineralogy and Paleontology as well as a number of interactive exhibits, which allow visitors to learn about the natural world.
A True Open-Air Museum Experiment
If you are thinking about visiting The Green Line, make sure to give yourself enough time. The city has promotions where you can buy passes for various lengths of time that allow you into virtually every paid experience on The Green Line for a single fee. Personally, I could spend an entire week combing through all the stops along the line.
The line not only passes through parks adorned with art, installations, and museums, it also walks you through cobblestone streets filled with tempting bistros and shops, which are a pleasant distraction.
The Green Line is open all year, so if you don’t get your fill in a single visit, you can always return and pick up where you left off on the Nantes art walk.
Cover photo by Lana Katsaros
