By Joan Gannij, to Museum Spotlight Europe (May 2023)
On a recent visit to Paris, I finally became acquainted with Musée Carnavalet, one of the oldest museums in Paris, and an absolute must see. After decades of visits to Paris and a brief stint as a resident in the 1990s, I take pride in knowing the city more as a local than a tourist. On the opposite scale of the iconic, intimidating Louvre, this sanctuary of art and artifacts is dedicated to documenting the city’s rich history, from its origins to the present. Musée Carnavalet displays pieces like: archaeological remains, French Revolution memorabilia, scale models of monuments, paintings, drawings, prints, posters, graphic arts, photographs, personages, personalities, coins, cultural heritage archives, historical and memorial objects.
The Beginnings
The museum was originally established within Hôtel Carnavalet, at 23 Rue de Sévigné, the residence of Madame de Sévigné, a 17th century aristocrat, acclaimed for her letter writing. However, it derives its name from the widow of François de Kernevenoy (corrupted to Carnavalet), tutor to Henri III, who bought it in 1571. After reaching full capacity near the end of the 20th century, the neighboring Hôtel Le Peletier de Saint Fargeau was acquired, and the extended and enhanced Musée Carnavalet (re)opened to the public in 1989, joined to its neighbor by a gallery. Note that the term Hôtel (particulier) refers not to a hostelry, but to a prestigious residence or government structure, like a City Hall.
Ensconced in the Marais quartier in the 3rd arrondissement, not far from the Picasso Museum, Musée Carnavalet takes you on an intriguing and impressive journey into the creation of a major European capital. Each themed room provides a fascinating context into how the humble French commune evolved into one of the most spectacular cities in the world. The museum first opened to the public in 1880, as an initiative of Baron Haussmann, the audacious and controversial architect/urban planner (appointed by Napoleon). It is worth noting that Haussmann took on the title of Baron for his own status. Nonetheless, it was his brilliant master plan that transformed Paris in the latter half of the 19th century. Inspired by the spaciousness of London with its parks and broad boulevards, Hausmann convinced Napoleon to build museums, theaters, an opera house in the city, and factories on the outskirts. His goal was to ignite financial, commercial and cultural movements within Paris. Haussmann’s city plans garnered several critics with heavy allegations; Still today, many negative sentiments remain on the changes Haussmann brought to Paris’ cityscape.
A New Start
The museum was closed in 2016 after curators concluded that the enormous collection of some 580,000 objects required a more cohesive layout. Curators believed a chronological order may create a more seamless experience for visitors. The outdated atmosphere also required significant refurbishing, and under the direction of François Châtillon, chief architect for France’s historical monuments, Musée Carnavalet now offers a more contemporary experience. After a five-year closure, and a 58 million euro renovation, it reopened in the spring of 2021.
Modern touches include an assortment of digital displays and immersive “scenographies” to enhance and illuminate historical elements. Meanwhile, the basement—the oldest part of the museum—boasts a renovation which now houses the Mesolithic and Renaissance exhibits. Other updates include the addition of ramps and lifts, making the space more accessible and inclusive for visitors of all ages and abilities. Other accommodating additions include a ‘lowering’ of over 10% of the museum’s exhibits for optimal viewing. The ‘new’ environs are more beautiful and spacious to accommodate an exhibition route that extends over 42,000 square feet (with 3,800 works on display). The reimagined space now provides space for events and catering. So, wear good walking shoes and keep in mind that the storage lockers are often full or (sigh) not functional.
The Tour
As you make your way up elegant wooden staircases that lead to pristine walkways, each gallery has its own theme depicting different periods of Parisian history. Informative displays are devoted to major moments like the Ruins, Reconstruction, Revolution, and Republic. Journey through time to the dawn of the French Revolution where you will relive the revolt that marked a great turning point in the history of the French republic. Discover the largest collection in the world dedicated to this historical event. Attention is also paid to Commemorations, Declarations, and Celebrations, including: behind the scenes of an insurrection, images of the first air balloon launches, and other memorable feats of Napoleon, including the construction of the Eiffel Tower as part of the World’s Fair in 1889. The French love their parades of pomp and circumstance, and attention is paid to Monuments, from Montmartre to Montparnasse, and surrounding quartiers, as well as Les Beaux Arts and the louche and lascivious La Vie Bohème.
The prestigious jeweler Georges Fouquet donated the remarkable décor from his exclusive store established in 1941 in the 6th arrondissement. The installation is a harmonious interplay of natural curves of flowers and plants, delicate details which can be seen in the floor, ceiling, furniture and lighting. The Art Deco (Nouveau) objects inspired by jewels were designed in 1901 by the renowned Alphonse Mucha, a Czech painter, illustrator and graphic artist. Mucha was best known for his distinctly stylized and decorative theatrical posters, particularly those of stage actress Sarah Bernhardt.
The museum’s rarefied walls display a colorful cast of characters, from portraits of writers and composers like Baudelaire and Mérimée to grandes dames like Josephine Baker, Edith Piaf and Juliet Greco. Other familiar icons are on view like Chat Noir, the infamous Montmartre cabaret where ladies of the night consorted with struggling painters who would eventually become renowned artists. Keep an eye out for an ivory baton that was used by the composer and conductor Bizet in 1863. The pièce de résistance for me was entering Marcel Proust’s bedchamber/writing domain, which has been fully reconstructed, and is an exact copy of his spartan, cork-lined bedroom. The bourgeois bon vivant, who achieved fame later in life, wanted no distractions whatsoever from his writing; His modest desk with a well-arranged collection of writing tools makes that fact quite clear.
In still another gallery you are confronted with a wall featuring dozens of Impressionist paintings, which offer a glimpse of daily life during a significant epoch in the City of Lights. The painting’s subjects include: contemplative poets, haughty courtesans, and proud gentlemen in top hats with their stylish partners in lavish gowns, gloves and headdresses. These pieces depict an elegance that remains in the DNA and legacy of haute cuisine, haute couture, interior design and timeless style. It was one of my favorite locations to pause, reflect and catch my breath after absorbing so many images and so much information.
As Paris secured its reputation as the intellectual and artistic capital of Europe, Parisian life soon became synonymous with pleasure, leisure, and entertainment. The evolution of the French capital remains complex, and has been painstakingly deconstructed with its many aspects, from architectural transformation, customs and diverse political, philosophical and religious aspects, to its eternal commitment to joie de vivre (the art of living). As I traversed corridors and navigated staircases, I continued to be impressed and enlightened by an array of little known facts and anecdotes throughout each gallery. Until this belated visit, I thought that I knew a lot about Paris and its evocative history. It may have been my first visit to this venerable institution, but it will not be my last.
More Parisian Wonder
If you want to extend your visit, catch your breath, or enjoy a sandwich in a beautiful environment, here’s a secret tip: head for Georges Cain Square, a little-known garden that looks like a petite open-air museum. In fact, Georges Cain was Musée Carnavalet’s first curator.
Just a stone’s throw from the Musée Carnavalet, take refuge in a beautiful green setting which serves as a lapidary deposit of relics from the Museum’s collections. Taking pride of place in the center is Île-de-France, a sculpture of a comely naked woman by Aristide Maillol (1861-1944). (Note: Musée Maillol in the 7th arrondissement; 59-61 Rue de Grenelles is also worth a visit.) To the right side, you will notice a succession of stone pieces of various shapes and sizes, which are found here without any particular indication. However modest, these historical remains deserve a closer look. In the center of this wall, you will discover a pediment and columns that belonged to the Tuileries Palace, long destroyed. There are also remains of the salt storehouse of Paris, a Renaissance rose window that was once part of the old Hôtel de Ville, a window of the Hôtel de Thou, and even remains of Merovingian sarcophagi. For botany lovers, you can even approach and admire a hundred-year-old fig tree and an iron tree. No wonder locals like to consider this urban oasis a part of their regular promenade.
Cover photo by Franck Diverd
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