Imagine a place where history unfolds in layers, quite literally. In Pilsen, Czech Republic (Plzen, Czechia), you have the rare opportunity to explore two distinct museums occupying the same geographical footprint—one above ground and one below. It’s a unique adventure that’s too intriguing to pass up.
The Brewery Museum resides in Pilsen’s sole surviving medieval brewing house, a testament to the city’s rich beer-making heritage. Just beneath your feet, The Historic Underground of Pilsen unfurls its labyrinthine passages, though only a fraction of its vast network is open to the public.
For roughly 150 Czech koruna (about $6.60), you can embark on a self-guided journey through the Brewery Museum, immersing yourself in the art and science of Pilsen’s famed brewing tradition. Meanwhile, the subterranean wonders of the Historic Underground await your discovery on a guided one-hour tour, priced at approximately 190 Czech koruna ($8.30).
This dual exploration offers a unique perspective on Pilsen’s history–from its beer-centric surface to its mysterious depths. It’s a two-for-one historical immersion that’s as enriching as it is unusual.
Above: The Brewery Museum
In the heart of Pilsen’s historic center, a 15th-century brewing compound stands as a testament to the city’s rich beer-making heritage. This highly respected structure and sole surviving brewing house in Pilsen is now home to a treasure trove of history. The brewhouse is connected by a courtyard, which is home to not only the Brewery Museum, but also the renowned gift shop, operating tavern, and The Historic Underground of Plzen. It’s a place where the past bubbles up to meet the present, offering visitors a journey through time.
As you cross the threshold from the gift shop into the museum, you’re immediately enveloped by the aroma of hops and history. The museum’s exposition is a sensory delight, a carefully curated collection that traces the evolution of beer from its humble beginnings to its current status as a global beverage phenomenon. It’s an ode to the art and science of brewing, a nod to the craft that has shaped Pilsen’s identity for centuries.
Wandering through the exhibits, you’ll find yourself face to face with brewing curiosities that range from the minuscule to the monumental. There’s the world’s smallest beer mug, a diminutive vessel that could easily be mistaken for a thimble, juxtaposed with a gargantuan mug from Siberia that looks like it could quench the thirst of a small village. These contrasting artifacts serve as whimsical bookends to the vast spectrum of brewing culture on display.
In the late-Gothic malthouse, amidst the floor peppered with stray malt and a vintage kiln, the ghosts of medieval brewers seem to linger. You can almost hear the crunch of the grain underfoot, smell the sweet aroma of malting barley, and feel the heat from the kiln as it transforms raw ingredients into the building blocks of beer. It’s a sensory time machine that transports you back to an era when brewing was as much an art as it was a necessity.
As you meander through the exhibits, you’ll encounter the unsung heroes of the brewing world. The coopers who crafted the barrels, the stagecoach drivers who distributed the precious cargo, and the publicans who served it all play starring roles in this comprehensive narrative. It’s a reminder that beer is not just about ingredients and process, but about people and community.
The museum’s collection of tankards and beer bottles is a visual feast, each piece telling its own story of design, function, and cultural significance. From ornate steins to humble clay mugs, these vessels are silent witnesses to centuries of toasts, celebrations, and quiet contemplations over a well-earned pint.
This museum is great for those who prefer to explore at their own pace, as self-guided tours are available throughout the day. Armed with printed guides or the museum’s special mobile app, you’re free to lose yourself in the exhibits, lingering over the details that capture your imagination. It’s a choose-your-own-adventure approach to beer history, allowing each visitor to craft their own unique experience.
Below: The Historic Underground of Plzen
Venture into The Historic Underground of Plzen through the same 15th-century brewing house courtyard, but this time descend a modest staircase, and you’ll find yourself in an extensive network of corridors, cellars, and wells beneath the Czech city of Pilsen. This subterranean labyrinth, one of Central Europe’s largest, stretches an impressive 20 kilometers.
Construction began in the 14th century, initially for practical purposes like storage and food preservation. The deepest sections plunge three floors down, though most areas occupy two levels. During tumultuous times, these spaces sheltered residents from above-ground perils.
As you descend, you’re whisked back to an era when the earth’s cool embrace offered sanctuary. Medieval inhabitants once scurried through these dim passageways, seeking refuge or safeguarding their goods. The clever Pilsners transformed their city’s underbelly into a Swiss cheese of utility, carving out spaces for everything from food storage to clandestine taverns.
The fascinating ice rooms, a medieval predecessor to our modern freezers, was quite an achievement for the time. Here, ice blocks harvested from winter rivers kept food fresh and drinks chilled through sweltering summers.
The network of wells and pits you’ll encounter were the city’s lifeline, quenching thirsts and powering industries. At the end of the tour, the water wheel remains as a reminder of life above ground and is a testament to medieval engineering mastery. These aquatic workhorses once powered mills and machinery, proving that progress churned even in the darkest depths.
Life in medieval Pilsen was far from our modern comforts, yet these underground spaces reveal surprising sophistication. Carefully constructed cellars maintained optimal conditions for various goods, aging wine and beer, storing grain and preserving meats and cheeses.
This underground wonder isn’t merely a relic, it’s a living museum. During World War II, these ancient corridors served as air-raid shelters. As you explore, you’ll encounter a curious blend of practicality and whimsy. It’s where utility meets artistry, history blurs with legend.
Emerging into the sunlight, you’ll carry a newfound appreciation for our ancestors’ ingenuity. The Historic Underground of Plzen is truly a time capsule and testament to human adaptability and artistry.
For this museum tour, helmets are mandatory throughout and prepare for the chilly underground environment, where temperatures hover around 12°C (54°F). It’s strongly advised to wear warm clothing and closed toe shoes to ensure your comfort as you explore Pilsen’s fascinating (but a little wet and cold!) history. Also, don’t forget to use your beer ticket for a free beer at the end!
The Gift Shop is a Beer Shop
This compact space is a veritable cornucopia of craft brews, each bottle and can, a work of art in its own right. The shelves are lined with an impressive array of flavors that push the boundaries of traditional brewing.
They are well stocked with flavors like guava-infused IPA and strawberry-laced stout. For the more adventurous palate, there are concoctions like apricot pineapple coconut vanilla smoothie that sound more like a dessert than a beer. The cheery cherry lady sour ale adds a playful twist to the classic fruit beer and silly names like Flight Canceled may be available when you visit.
What sets this collection apart is not just the flavors, but the packaging. Each beer boasts either a beautifully designed label, a quirky name, or the allure of being a small-batch brew. This makes a unique souvenir, even if you are only able to bring the bottle home.
For Those Who Can’t Get Enough
A visit to Pilsen would not be complete without a nod to the city’s most famous export: Pilsner Urquell beer. An extensive tour of the Pilsner Urquell Brewery is available and includes a beer tasting at the end, straight from the barrel!
The Bruges Beer Experience offers a journey through Belgian beer heritage in the historic heart of Bruges. Open daily from 10 AM to 6 PM, the museum features interactive exhibits on brewing processes, beer types, and food pairings.
HopfenBierGut Museum offers an interactive journey that brings the world of hops and beer to life in vivid detail. Explore Spalt, the hop and beer city, on a unique 3D map. Immerse yourself in the hop harvest cycle through panoramic cinema. Venture inside a life-sized brewing kettle for a hands-on experience. At the media beer table, discover diverse beer cultures from around the globe.
A beer museum in France? Yes! Much like the typical chateau wine tours, Le musée de la Bière offers a stunning museum of (mostly French) beer, in a beautiful surrounding. Guests tend to particularly love the bar at the end and warm reception.
Cover photo by Lana Katsaros
[Written September 2024]
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